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Today I joined a tour to the DMZ, the demilitarized zone between South and North Korea. Our stops were Dorasan Station, the Third Tunnel, Dora Observatory, and Imjingak. I originally booked a longer tour that focused on the JSA (Joint Security Area), but it was cancelled for “political reasons.” My tour guide told me that this tour focuses more on military strategy and wouldn’t be as interesting to me, so I guess everything worked out. 

 

When our bus pulled into the zone, soldiers boarded and looked at all of our passports. We were all cleared, so we were able to continue on our tour.

 

Dorasan Station: Important people (i.e. politicians, Olympic athletes) can take a train from here to Pyongyang and vice versa. I got some stamps on my plane ticket as souvenirs! 

 

Third Tunnel: Infiltration tunnel the North Koreans tried digging after armistice so that they could invade Seoul. South Korea has found four of these tunnels so far, and there are probably more. The tunnel has been turned into a train roller coaster (very Korean) and doesn’t allow photo-taking (not very Korean at all). We had to wear helmets so our heads wouldn’t get injured from banging on the rocky roof of the tunnel (it happened to me a lot!). We took the roller coaster deep underground and then walked until we reached a point blocked off by the military, 170m away from the border. That’s the closest you’re allowed to get from South Korea.

 

Dora Observatory: You can look at North Korea through binoculars. I was able to see buildings in the closest city. They looked small but orderly. The city that’s easiest for outsiders to see probably isn’t representative of the inland, though. 

 

Imjingak: We had lunch here and could then explore. Since I was the only solo traveler in our group the restaurant gave me my own set of refillable appetizers! I finished first out of everyone and then went out on my own. First, I checked out Mangbaeddan, a monument where North Korean refugees living in the South go during Korean Thanksgiving to honor the ancestors they left behind. They can’t cross the border to visit their family’s graves. Next, I visited Freedom Bridge. After the Korean War, prisoners crossed the bridge to either the North or the South. They could never return after choosing their side. A fence now blocks the bridge from connecting to North Korea. People tie ribbons and banners onto it with notes expressing their wishes for a reunified Korea. There was also a bullet hole-ridden train that once connected Gaesong (northern city) and Imjingak but was destroyed during the Korean War. It’s a monument now.

 

Overall, I really enjoyed this tour and 100% recommend visiting the DMZ if you’re in Korea. It’s only an hour away from Seoul (scary to think about what would happen during a war), so it’s definitely accessible, especially if you join a tour group! 


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Since my last post, I have:
 
Visited a bunch of traditional markets and done some awesome thrift and bargain shopping! (pants for $2, corduroy dress for $1, brand new vintage-style dresses for $6 each). I found the super cheap stuff in bargain boxes and piles near Dongdaemun Station. The dresses were in the underground shopping center at Myeongdong. They had lots of amazing deals! I also did some significantly more expensive shopping for my family at the TonyMoly outlet. The good thing about spending so much is that you don’t have to pay the sales tax if you show your passport. 
 
Gone on tour! I visited the Gangchon Rail Bike Park, Nami Island, Petite France, and the Garden of Morning Calm. To be honest, if you’re a short-term tourist I wouldn’t recommend visiting these places. They’re kitschy and fun and don’t have any cultural significance—they’re just for Korean locals looking to have a fun day trip and take cute photos. During my tour I met a group of Filipino-Hawaiian college students on vacation in Seoul for their first independent international trip. I had a lot of fun talking with them about Filipino-American culture and language politics and I gave them tips about traveling around the world. I’m not a baby traveler anymore: I’ve transitioned from caterpillar to larva. Someday I’ll be a butterfly and take flight everywhere! We planned to meet up again at the Myeongdong night market. 
 
Met new people! In addition to the students, I’ve gotten to spend time with my roommates and other interesting people at my hostel. I met Chinese women here for face surgery; apparently it’s cheaper here than in China and there are visas specifically for this. I met strangers who gave me ominous wisdom. Most of the guests at my hostel are from other Asian countries, with a handful from Russia and Europe. I’m the only American. 
 
Tomorrow I’m going to visit the DMZ and learn more about North Korea. I have a couple of acquaintances who have actually crossed the border and toured there, but I have no interest in doing that. Not only is it potentially dangerous, but the tour is incredibly manufactured so you get no real glimpses at what life is actually like for the average citizen. Hopefully tomorrow will shed more light on the situation overall. Until next time!
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My 3-week winter break started yesterday, and I flew out as soon as possible. I arrived in the city this morning and will be here for one week. I originally wasn’t planning on making this trip (as with Japan) because Korean plane tickets from the Philippines tend to be expensive, but my grandma gave me all of her accumulated airline miles since she can't travel anymore. They were enough to buy round trip tickets for Japan and Korea! I’m incredibly grateful to her.

Our story so far: It is VERY cold. I’m originally from a cold place, but maybe my tolerance level has lowered after living in the desert and then the tropics. The coat my aunt lent me wasn’t thick enough to keep me warm, so my first mission was to hunt down a thrift shop to get an outer coat for the one I already have (I didn’t want to buy a complete winter coat that I would only use this week—I already have a good one back in the States). I dropped my suitcase off at my hostel and then took the subway up to Changdong, where there was a Salvation Army store near the station. I found a heavy gray trench coat for 10,000 won (about 10USD), which is great because I’ve always wanted a coat like it! My mission tomorrow is to find a good pair of gloves and maybe a hat as well. After shopping I took the subway all the way down to the National Museum of Korea and spent the rest of the day there. Permanent exhibitions are free admission. I had a lot of fun learning about Korean history.

Discover Seoul: I bought a 24-hr Discover Seoul Card. So far I’ve used it as my subway pass and to take the AREX train from the airport, but I haven’t activated the countdown clock for visiting the attractions it includes. I knew I would be tired today and that I would get lost a lot, so I’m holding off for a few days. When I'm ready I will try my best to game the system and visit as many sites as possible.

Hostel with shower-toilets??: My hostel is pretty nice—it has fast WiFi and free breakfast, and I only have two roommates. 10USD/night. The bathrooms are really weird, though—they’re all single use and have a shower head in the same little room as the sink and toilet? So whenever someone showers everything gets soaked?? I mean, I guess it’s space-efficient...

Also, I learned that electrical outlets in Korea are European style and always 2-prong. My converter is a 3-prong so I had to scramble to find another converter as all of my batteries were dying. 7-11 is a lifesaver! They also have great snacks like the ones in Japan. 

I’m not sure if I should post every day or if I should just do a recap at the end of the week. I’ll figure it out as I go!
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I cycle through fandoms: I get intense about specific books and films, and then drop them and move on. I recently got back into The Great Gatsby because my brother had to read it for school and I wanted to talk about it with him. We’re both Jay Gatsby/Nick Carraway shippers! I’m posting some of the articles I’ve read on gay subtext here.

 

Book synopsis: http://community.sparknotes.com/index.php/2016/12/31/blogging-the-great-gatsby/ 

A little juvenile, but I like her take on Tom Buchanan having a weird thing for Nick and that she dubbed Gatsby a “sexy orphan war hero” and his car a “phallic sin wagon.”

 

TV Tropes page: https://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Literature/TheGreatGatsby 

Has some good analysis of queer coding in the novel.

 

Book analysis: https://www.salon.com/2013/01/09/was_nick_carraway_gay/

 

More book analysis, alternate view: https://themillions.com/2018/04/the-queering-of-nick-carraway.html 

 

2013 film analysis: https://www.theatlantic.com/entertainment/archive/2013/05/-i-the-great-gatsby-i-movie-needed-to-be-more-gay/275768/ 

 

The Truman Capote script that was “too gay” for the 1970s film: https://the-niche.blog/2017/10/18/hey-gays-heres-truman-capotes-hardcore-gay-screenplay-of-the-great-gatsby-for-real-this-time/  (note that this isn’t actually very gay but still interesting!)

 

And finally, this masterpiece: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYq3Y6vwrTs (PLEASE EVERYONE WATCH THIS)


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I watched A Room with a View for the first time today and there isn't a big enough fandom for me to post my takes but I’m doing it anyway. Maggie Smith and Judi Dench's characters were DEFINITELY dating. You're welcome!


First post!

Dec. 5th, 2018 03:46 pm
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Hello world! I’m ms_minerva, and this is my first time properly blogging instead of just lurking on a site. Some of my goals now that I’ve graduated college and have this vast expanse of years and years stretching out before me are to make myself more cultured and well-read and to engage more fully with the world instead of just watching from the sidelines.

I’ve spent the past year and a half as a teaching assistant abroad in the Middle East and Asia and am now in grad school app purgatory. I hope to use this blog to jot down my thoughts on what I’m reading and where I’m traveling, and hopefully I’ll have the chance to meet other people who share my interests!


What I’ve read this past month: Things Fall Apart (Chinua Achebe), The Heart’s Invisible Furies (John Boyne), Hunger (Roxane Gay), Howl (Allen Ginsberg), assorted novellas

Where I’ve traveled this past month: Tokyo, Nikko, Kyoto, Osaka. I found a really cool secondhand clothes shop in Kyoto if anyone wants to hear about that!

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